I keep crested geckos alongside my homestead animals, and of all the reptiles I’ve housed, Correlophus ciliatus rewards precision more than almost any other species. Get the humidity cycle right and the tank dimensions right, and you’ll have an animal that thrives, sheds cleanly, and behaves naturally for its entire 15–20 year lifespan. Get it wrong by a consistent 10–15%, and you’re looking at chronic respiratory problems or a gecko that never fully escapes its shed.
Here is the direct answer before we go deeper: crested gecko humidity should run 60–80% RH on a daily cycle — lower during the day (50–60%), rising to 70–80% after your evening misting. For tank size, a single adult needs a minimum 20-gallon tall enclosure (18x18x24 inches), with pairs and trios requiring 29–40 gallons of vertical-priority space. Everything else in this guide — substrate, lighting, temperature, diet — builds on those two foundations.
TL;DR — Crested Gecko Quick-Reference Parameters
| Parameter | Specification |
|---|---|
| Ambient Temperature | 72–78°F (22–26°C); max 82°F |
| Night Temperature | 65–72°F; cold tolerated to ~60°F short-term |
| Humidity (daytime) | 50–60% RH |
| Humidity (post-mist / night) | 70–80% RH |
| Humidity (absolute minimum) | Never sustained below 40% |
| Adult Tank Size (single) | 20-gallon tall, 18×18×24 in minimum |
| Adult Tank Size (pair/trio) | 29–40 gallon tall, 18×18×36 in preferred |
| UVB | Beneficial (2.0–5.0 UVI); not obligate |
| Photoperiod | 12/12 light/dark; natural seasonal variation acceptable |
| Primary Diet | Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) — Pangea or Repashy |
| Supplemental Feeding | Dubia roaches or crickets 1–2×/week (juveniles more frequently) |
| Substrate | Bioactive ABG mix over drainage layer; coco fiber acceptable |
| Shedding Support | Consistent humidity cycle; never pull stuck shed manually |
What Are Crested Geckos / Crested Eyelash Geckos?
Crested Eyelash Gecko Care Begins with Knowing the Animal
The crested gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) is frequently sold and searched under two names: crested gecko and eyelash gecko. These are the same animal. The “eyelash” name comes from the pronounced crest of raised skin projections that runs from each eye back along the lateral edges of the body toward the tail. These projections resemble a dramatic row of lashes, which led to the common name. You will also see the outdated binomial Rhacodactylus ciliatus in older care literature — both names refer to the same species.
Native to New Caledonia (a group of French-territory islands off the east coast of Australia), crested geckos were believed extinct until rediscovery in 1994. They have since become one of the most popular pet reptiles globally, partly because of their moderate temperature requirements, their tolerance for handling, and the extraordinary variety of color morphs that selective breeding has produced over three decades.
For our purposes here — and for anyone shopping for a complete crested gecko care setup guide — the key biology is this:
- Arboreal: Lives in the tree canopy. Vertical space in the enclosure is not optional — it’s the primary dimension.
- Crepuscular/Nocturnal: Most active at dawn and dusk. Does not depend on high-intensity basking like diurnal lizards.
- Cool-preferring: Their New Caledonia origin means they evolved at elevation, in a subtropical climate without extreme heat. This is not a desert reptile. Heat kills them quickly.
- Semi-arid-season adapted: Wild crested geckos experience humidity variation — drier periods and wet periods — which is why the humidity cycle matters more than holding a constant number.
Crested Gecko Tank Size: Minimum Enclosure Requirements by Age and Weight
Why Vertical Space Drives the Crested Gecko Size Tank Decision
Most reptile enclosure recommendations are floor-area-first. Crested geckos flip that. Because they spend the majority of their active hours in the upper third of the enclosure — wedged in cork tubes, perched on branches, clinging to glass — the height of the tank matters more than the base footprint.
A 20-gallon “long” (30×12×12 in) is essentially useless for an adult crested gecko. A 20-gallon “tall” (18×18×24 in) is the accepted minimum for a single adult. This distinction is worth understanding before you purchase, because pet stores often sell both under the same gallon label.
Tank Size by Life Stage
| Life Stage | Weight | Recommended Enclosure |
|---|---|---|
| Hatchlings | < 5g | Small deli cup (32–64 oz) or 5-gallon with secure mesh |
| Early Juveniles | 5–10g | 5-gallon tall or small Exo Terra 8×8×12 |
| Mid Juveniles | 10–25g | 10-gallon tall (12×12×18 in minimum) |
| Sub-Adults | 25–50g | 10–20 gallon tall; 18×18×18 acceptable short-term |
| Adults (single) | 50g+ | 20-gallon tall minimum; 18×18×24 preferred |
| Adult Pair | 2 adults | 29-gallon tall; 18×18×36 ideal |
| Adult Trio (1M:2F) | 3 adults | 40-gallon tall; 18×18×36 minimum |
A note on hatchlings: I keep hatchlings in small enclosures deliberately. A hatchling in a 20-gallon enclosure will have difficulty locating its food, and the large air volume can make humidity management inconsistent. Small deli cups with cross-ventilation strips provide predictable micro-climate control for geckos under 5g. Upgrade them out of these setups by the time they hit 10g.
Enclosure Type Recommendations
Front-opening terrariums (Exo Terra, REPTI ZOO) are my preference for crested geckos. Top-opening access stresses arboreal species that instinctively read overhead approach as a predator threat. Front-opening doors allow you to reach in from the side, which is significantly less alarming for the animal during maintenance and feeding.
Glass vs. PVC: Glass enclosures are easier to find and less expensive at the juvenile/adult single-animal size range. PVC (Zen Habitats, Animal Plastics) retains humidity better and holds heat more consistently, making it superior for breeding racks. For a single display animal, glass with a mesh or screen top is perfectly adequate.
Screen vs. solid top: Full screen tops provide maximum airflow but can make humidity management difficult in dry climates. Many experienced keepers use a hybrid approach — a mesh top with a partial cover (aluminum foil or plexiglass) over 50–70% of the top surface to reduce humidity loss between misting cycles without eliminating ventilation.
Crested Gecko Humidity: The Full Humidity Cycle Explained
Why a Cycle Matters More Than a Single Number
The most common humidity mistake I see — and I’ve seen it on forums, in pet store handouts, and in older care sheets — is stating a single target number like “60–80% humidity.” That’s not wrong, but it’s incomplete. Sustained 80% humidity with inadequate ventilation is a direct path to respiratory infections. Sustained 60% humidity without evening misting peaks causes dysecdysis (retained shed) over time.
What crested geckos evolved for is oscillation: the enclosure dries out during the day, then humidity spikes back up in the evening as temperature drops and dew condenses. Replicating that cycle in captivity is the correct goal.
The target cycle:
- Morning reading: 60–70% RH (residual from night misting)
- Midday/afternoon: 50–60% RH (natural drying)
- Pre-misting floor: No lower than 40% — below this, mist immediately regardless of schedule
- Post-misting peak: 75–85% RH (within 30 minutes of misting)
- Overnight: 65–75% RH as it slowly drops toward morning
How to Read Humidity Accurately
Do not trust the analog dial hygrometers that come included with budget enclosures. They are consistently inaccurate by 10–15%, which is a meaningful error range when you’re targeting a 60–80% window. Use a digital hygrometer — the AcuRite 00613 and Govee brand sensors are reliable and inexpensive. Place the sensor at mid-enclosure height, not at the substrate surface (where it will always read high) and not directly above a drainage layer.
If you’re running multiple enclosures, consider a WiFi-connected sensor that logs data to an app. Being able to review 24-hour humidity curves tells you far more about your enclosure’s behavior than a single snapshot reading.
How to Maintain Crested Gecko Humidity
Misting Schedule and Technique
Manual misting: Mist the enclosure walls, plants, and décor — not directly onto the animal — once in the evening, approximately one hour before the lights turn off or after the room begins to dim naturally. For most temperate-climate households, once-daily evening misting is sufficient. In very dry climates (< 30% ambient RH), twice-daily misting (light morning, heavy evening) may be necessary.
Use dechlorinated or reverse osmosis water for misting. Tap water leaves mineral deposits on glass and leaves, which is an aesthetic problem, and in some municipal systems the chlorine content is high enough to irritate mucous membranes. A basic carbon-block filter pitcher is sufficient for dechlorination.
Automatic misters: The Mistking Starter System and Exo Terra Monsoon are both workable at the single-enclosure level. If you’re running more than four or five enclosures, an automated misting system pays for itself quickly in time savings. Timer-based systems are set-and-forget but still require periodic adjustment as seasons change and ambient humidity in your home shifts.
Substrate Selection for Humidity Management
The substrate is your humidity reservoir. Choose poorly and you’re fighting the enclosure every day.
Bioactive substrate (ABG mix): This is my preferred setup for any enclosure that will be in place longer than 6 months. The Atlanta Botanical Garden mix — or commercial equivalents — combines orchid bark, coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, and organic topsoil in a ratio that holds moisture well without becoming waterlogged. Over a drainage layer (1–2 inches of LECA, hydroballs, or coarse gravel), the ABG mix maintains moisture gradient — wetter at the bottom, drier at the surface — which supports microfauna, plant roots, and prevents anaerobic conditions.
Coconut fiber (Eco Earth, Plantation Soil): A reliable single-component substrate. Holds moisture reasonably well, is low-cost, and can be spot-cleaned or replaced in sections. My preferred option for anyone not ready to commit to full bioactive maintenance.
Paper towel: For hatchlings under 10g only. Easy to monitor feces (critical for health assessment in neonates), easy to replace, zero compaction risk for small animals. Phase out once the animal reaches 10g.
What not to use: Sand, gravel, walnut shell, or any loose particulate that the gecko is likely to ingest. Crested geckos lick their environment — substrate impaction is a documented cause of death.
Live Plants and Their Role in Humidity Buffering
Live plants do more than aesthetics. Transpiration — the process by which plants release water vapor through their leaves — contributes meaningfully to ambient humidity between misting cycles. In a heavily planted 20-gallon tall, transpiration can sustain humidity 5–10% higher than an identical but empty enclosure between mistings.
Suitable plants for crested gecko enclosures:
- Pothos (Epipremnum aureum): Nearly indestructible, fast-growing, excellent humidity contribution.
- Bromeliads: Hold water in their central cups, which geckos drink from and benefit from.
- Ficus pumila (creeping fig): Spreads across walls and provides perching texture.
- Dracaena species: Sturdy, tolerant of low light and variable humidity.
- Tillandsia (air plants): Mount on cork bark; require misting but add structural interest.
Avoid plants with thorns, toxic sap, or pesticide treatment. All plants should be rinsed and ideally quarantined for two weeks before introduction to an established enclosure.
Temperature Parameters for Crested Geckos
Crested geckos are the rare reptile that thrives at room temperature in most temperate homes. This is genuinely one of their best qualities from a keeper’s standpoint — you don’t need an elaborate heating setup in a house kept at 70–76°F.
Target ambient temperature: 72–78°F (22–26°C) Critical maximum: 82°F (28°C) — sustained temperatures above this cause heat stress, anorexia, and can be fatal within 24–48 hours Night minimum: 65°F (18°C) is perfectly safe; 60°F short-term is tolerated but not ideal for juveniles
Supplemental Heating When Needed
If your home drops below 65°F at night in winter, you need supplemental heat. Options in order of preference:
- Radiant Heat Panel (RHP): Mounted inside the enclosure top, wired to a thermostat. Heats the air without drying the substrate. My preferred solution.
- Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE): No light output, durable, controlled by thermostat. Works, but heats air less evenly than an RHP in a tall enclosure.
- Under-tank heater (UTH): Not recommended for crested gecko setups specifically. UTHs heat the substrate, which dries the bottom layer and creates an inverted temperature gradient (hottest at the floor where the gecko rarely goes, coolest at the top where they spend most of their time).
Always use a thermostat with any heat source. Uncontrolled CHEs and RHPs can bring enclosure temperatures above 82°F quickly, particularly in warmer months or if the room temperature rises.
Lighting: UVB for Crested Geckos
Do Crested Geckos Need UVB?
This is one of the most debated questions in crested gecko keeping, and the answer has shifted as research has improved. The traditional position — “crested geckos are nocturnal and don’t need UVB” — is outdated.
Current evidence (including photoperiod and UV studies at the University of Sunshine Coast and field observations from New Caledonian researchers) indicates that crested geckos in the wild receive low-level, indirect UV exposure at dawn, dusk, and through canopy gaps. Captive geckos kept with appropriate low-level UVB demonstrate:
- Better bone density on radiographic assessment
- Improved immune function markers
- More natural activity patterns
Recommended UVB level: 2.0–5.0 UVI at the animal’s typical resting height. This is the “shade zone” on the Arcadia or Solarmeter UV index scale — NOT the intensity used for basking heliotherms like blue-tongued skinks or bearded dragons.
Equipment: Arcadia Forest 6% or Arcadia 7% (T5 HO) and Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0 are appropriate choices. Position the tube across the top of the enclosure, and ensure the gecko can achieve 2.0–5.0 UVI by choosing to position itself at appropriate distances.
A crested gecko can survive without UVB — this is documented and not disputed. But “survives” is a lower standard than “thrives,” and the cost of adding a low-output UVB tube is minimal relative to the animal’s potential 15–20 year lifespan.
Photoperiod: 12 hours light / 12 hours dark is a reasonable baseline. Natural seasonal variation (longer summer days, shorter winter) can be beneficial for animals you intend to breed, as it provides the environmental cues that trigger reproductive cycling.
Complete Care Sheet for Crested Geckos
This table consolidates every parameter discussed in this guide into a single reference you can print or bookmark.
| Care Parameter | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Species | Correlophus ciliatus | Formerly Rhacodactylus ciliatus; also called eyelash gecko |
| Adult Size | 6–10 inches (15–25 cm); 35–65g | Males typically smaller than females |
| Lifespan | 15–20 years | With appropriate husbandry |
| Enclosure (single adult) | 20-gallon tall; 18×18×24 in | Front-opening preferred |
| Enclosure (pair) | 29-gallon tall; 18×18×36 in | |
| Enclosure (trio 1M:2F) | 40-gallon tall; 18×18×36 in | Monitor for female stress |
| Temperature (ambient) | 72–78°F (22–26°C) | |
| Temperature (max) | 82°F (28°C) absolute | Sustained exposure fatal |
| Temperature (night) | 65–72°F; down to 60°F short-term | |
| Humidity (daytime) | 50–60% RH | Allow to dry naturally |
| Humidity (post-mist) | 75–85% RH | Evening misting cycle |
| Humidity (overnight) | 65–75% RH | Falling from post-mist peak |
| Substrate | ABG bioactive mix over LECA drainage | Coco fiber acceptable alternative |
| Lighting | 12/12 photoperiod; low UVB (2.0–5.0 UVI) beneficial | Not obligate but recommended |
| Primary diet | Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) — Pangea, Repashy | 2–3×/week; replace every 24–48h |
| Supplemental insects | Dubia roaches, crickets; gut-loaded and dusted | 1–2×/week for adults; more for juveniles |
| Acceptable fruit | Mango, papaya, fig — occasional only | High sugar; not a diet staple |
| Water | Fresh dechlorinated water in shallow dish; dew on plant leaves | Change daily |
| Supplements | Calcium with D3 (if no UVB); plain calcium at insect feedings | Follow Pangea’s supplement protocol |
| Shedding | Every 3–6 weeks in juveniles; less frequent in adults | Consistent humidity prevents dysecdysis |
| Handling | After 2-week settling period; limit to 15–20 min sessions initially | |
| Cleaning | Spot-clean 2–3×/week; full substrate replace quarterly (or maintain bioactive) | |
| Quarantine (new animals) | 90 days minimum in separate room | Prevent pathogen transmission |
Soft CTA: Going Deeper into Morph-Specific Husbandry
This guide covers the foundational setup parameters that apply to all crested geckos — the humidity cycle, tank dimensions, temperature thresholds, and lighting considerations that every keeper needs to understand before the first animal arrives.
For those keeping or breeding specific morphs — particularly line-bred traits like Axanthic, Lilly White, or Super Dalmatian — there is a layer of morph-specific guidance that this general care sheet can’t fully address. Certain line-bred traits have associated health considerations, and understanding the genetics behind the patterns you’re keeping helps you make better decisions about pairings and long-term management.
For deeper guidance on morph-specific breeding and care, I’ve reviewed the Ultimate Crested Gecko Morph Guide — it goes further than basic husbandry into genetics and breeding selection, and it’s the most comprehensive resource I’ve found for keepers who are serious about understanding what they’re working with.
Common Setup Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Mistake 1: Constant High Humidity Without Airflow
Keeping the enclosure at 80%+ humidity continuously without allowing it to dry between mistings creates anaerobic conditions in the substrate, promotes bacterial and fungal growth on the glass and décor, and — most seriously — causes respiratory infections. The geckos need to breathe relatively dry air periodically. The cycle is the point, not the peak number.
Fix: Allow at least 4–6 hours of “drying time” between misting sessions. If humidity isn’t dropping below 70% during the day, you have insufficient ventilation. Add mesh venting or reduce partial-cover size.
Mistake 2: Wrong Enclosure Orientation (Long Instead of Tall)
A 20-gallon long tank gives the gecko nowhere to go. Crested geckos move vertically constantly — up to forage, down to the water dish, up to their sleeping spot. In a 12-inch-tall enclosure, you’re compressing all of that behavior into an unnatural flat plane.
Fix: Verify enclosure height before purchasing. The 20-gallon tall (18×18×24 in) and purpose-built terrariums from Exo Terra and REPTI ZOO are designed with height in mind.
Mistake 3: Under-Tank Heater on a Glass Bottom
Placing a UTH under the glass substrate of a crested gecko enclosure dries the bottom layer of substrate, creates an inverted temperature gradient (warmest at the floor), and can bring floor-level temperatures into dangerous ranges. The crested gecko rarely touches the floor — it benefits nothing from floor heat.
Fix: If supplemental heat is needed, use an RHP mounted at the top interior of the enclosure, controlled by a thermostat probe at mid-height.
Mistake 4: Pulling Stuck Shed
Retained shed (dysecdysis) can occur on toes, particularly if humidity has been running low. The instinct is to peel it off. This is the wrong response — pulling dry shed tears the tissue underneath and can amputate toe tips.
Fix: Prepare a shallow lukewarm water bath (temperature checked against your wrist — it should feel neutral, not warm). Soak the affected area for 10–15 minutes to rehydrate the shed, then it should slip off with extremely light contact. If it doesn’t, soak again rather than force it.
Mistake 5: Skipping the Quarantine Period for New Animals
Introducing a new crested gecko directly into an established enclosure — or even into the same room as established animals — without quarantine risks transmitting cryptosporidiosis, pinworms, or respiratory bacteria. These pathogens are widespread in reptile breeding populations and asymptomatic carriers are common.
Fix: 90-day quarantine minimum in a separate room (separate airspace from your main collection). Fecal testing by a reptile-experienced vet during the quarantine period is strongly recommended.
Mistake 6: Overcrowding Based on Gallon Rating Alone
Two adult female crested geckos can coexist peacefully in a 29–40 gallon tall with enough vertical structure to establish separate territories. Two adult males cannot share an enclosure at any size. One male with multiple females requires careful monitoring — females can be stressed by persistent male attention, which manifests as weight loss, anorexia, and eventually failure to produce viable eggs.
Fix: Know the sexes of your animals before housing together. Males are identifiable by visible hemipenal bulges at the base of the tail at sexual maturity (approximately 25–35g).
Morph-Specific Considerations: Does Morph Affect Care Needs?
The short answer: most morphs share identical fundamental care requirements. The humidity cycle, tank dimensions, temperature parameters, and diet covered in this guide apply equally to a wild-type, a Harlequin, a Tricolor, an Axanthic, or a Lilly White.
Where morph matters is not in the day-to-day husbandry parameters but in understanding what you’re working with genetically:
- Lilly White: A co-dominant trait that in homozygous form (Lilly White × Lilly White) produces the “Super Lilly White,” which is associated with fetal mortality and hatch-failure issues. Responsible keepers avoid producing Supers. Understanding this requires knowing the genetics, not just recognizing the phenotype.
- Axanthic: A recessive trait that reduces yellow pigmentation. Pairing Axanthic to Axanthic is straightforward, but pairing to other morphs requires understanding how recessive inheritance works across multiple generations.
- Pinstripe and Dalmatian: Line-bred traits rather than single-gene Mendelian traits, which means predictability in offspring requires careful breeding records and population awareness.
These distinctions are where a dedicated morph-specific resource becomes genuinely useful. The Ultimate Crested Gecko Morph Guide addresses the genetics layer in depth — pairing logic, morph interaction, and the health implications of certain combinations — in a way that this general care sheet cannot cover comprehensively. If you’re keeping anything beyond wild-type, it is worth understanding the genetics of what you have.
For a comparison of how crested gecko care relates to other popular gecko and lizard species, see my gecko vs chameleon guide comparison, or if you’re keeping chameleons alongside your geckos, the complete chameleon care guide and veiled chameleon care and enclosure guide provide the same parameter-depth approach for those species. Care requirements differ significantly — chameleons are substantially more demanding on humidity management and lighting than crested geckos, and the overlap between chameleon and gecko keeping is mostly in the keeper’s mindset rather than the equipment.
Pre-FAQ Note
The questions I receive most often from new crested gecko owners cluster around three areas: humidity specifics, tank sizing decisions, and the relationship between morph and care. The FAQ below addresses each directly with the same specificity as the rest of this guide.
For anyone setting up a morph-breeding program or trying to understand what the patterns and traits in their animals actually mean genetically, the Ultimate Crested Gecko Morph Guide is where I’d send you after you’ve finished reading here. It picks up where the foundational care sheet leaves off.
Frequently Asked Questions
What humidity do crested geckos need?
Crested geckos thrive at 60–80% relative humidity. Humidity should cycle — allow it to drop to 50–60% during the day and rise back to 70–80% after misting in the evening. Sustained high humidity without airflow causes respiratory infections; sustained low humidity causes dysecdysis (stuck shed). The cycle matters more than any single number.
What tank size do crested geckos need?
A single adult crested gecko requires a minimum 20-gallon tall enclosure (approximately 18×18×24 inches). Juveniles under 25g can be kept in smaller 10-gallon setups, but adult pairs or trios need at least a 29–40 gallon tall vivarium. Vertical space matters more than floor area for this arboreal species — a 20-gallon “long” is not a substitute for a 20-gallon “tall.”
What is a crested eyelash gecko?
Crested gecko and eyelash gecko are common names for the same species, Correlophus ciliatus (formerly Rhacodactylus ciliatus). The eyelash name refers to the distinctive crest of skin projections running from the eye laterally along the body toward the tail. The care requirements are identical because it is the same animal.
Do crested geckos need UVB lighting?
Crested geckos are crepuscular/nocturnal and can survive without UVB under normal captive conditions. However, low-level UVB (2.0–5.0 UVI) has been shown to support healthier bone density, immune function, and natural behavior. A low-output UVB bulb (Arcadia Forest 6% or Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0) is beneficial and recommended, though not strictly required for survival. “Survives” and “thrives” are different standards over a 15–20 year lifespan.
What temperature do crested geckos need?
Crested geckos prefer temperatures of 72–78°F (22–26°C). Temperatures above 82°F (28°C) for extended periods cause heat stress, anorexia, and can be fatal within 24–48 hours. They tolerate night drops to 65°F without issue, making them well-suited for room-temperature setups in most temperate-climate homes.
What is a good care sheet for crested geckos?
A complete crested gecko care sheet covers: tank size (20-gallon tall minimum for adults, 18×18×24 in), temperature (72–78°F ambient, max 82°F), humidity (60–80% on a daily cycle), diet (Pangea or Repashy CGD plus gut-loaded insects), lighting (low-output UVB beneficial), substrate (bioactive ABG mix over drainage layer, or coconut fiber), and shedding support (consistent humidity cycle, never pull stuck shed). For morph-specific husbandry guidance beyond foundational care, the Ultimate Crested Gecko Morph Guide provides breed-relevant genetics and breeding selection detail. The complete crested gecko care guide and the Ultimate Crested Gecko Morph Guide review are both useful companions to this article.
Key Takeaways
- Crested gecko humidity: Target a daily cycle of 50–60% daytime dropping to 40% floor, then mist to 75–85% each evening. Never sustain above 80% without adequate ventilation.
- Crested gecko tank size: Adults need a 20-gallon tall (18×18×24 in) minimum. Pairs: 29-gallon tall. Trios: 40-gallon tall. Height beats floor area for this arboreal species.
- Crested eyelash gecko: Same animal as crested gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) — identical care requirements apply.
- Temperature: 72–78°F ambient; absolute max 82°F. Most homes at normal thermostat settings need no supplemental heating.
- UVB: Not obligate, but low-level UVB (2.0–5.0 UVI) is beneficial over the animal’s multi-decade lifespan.
- Substrate: Bioactive ABG mix over drainage layer is optimal. Coco fiber works. Paper towel for hatchlings only.
- Morph genetics: Most morphs share identical care parameters. Understanding the genetics of what you’re keeping — especially for line-bred or co-dominant traits — requires morph-specific resources beyond this foundational care sheet.
- The cycle is the point: Crested gecko husbandry is less about hitting a fixed number and more about replicating the natural oscillation of the New Caledonian highland environment. Get the cycle right and nearly everything else follows.
Informational only. This article is for general informational purposes and is not professional, legal, medical, electrical, or financial advice. Survival, energy, and water-treatment decisions carry real risks — consult a licensed professional for your specific situation. Product claims are the manufacturer’s; verify current details on the official site.
By Megan Forsythe — off-grid homesteader & CERT-certified emergency preparedness instructor.